I grew up in a famous surf town but strangely enough didn’t learn to surf until I was 32. After a decade of traveling the world and living in the mountains, I returned to my roots.
Surfing has become a divine reward for coming home. Sitting out on the ocean waiting for a fresh set is some of the most meditative and peaceful time I spend alone. I thrill in anticipation for the perfect wave to achieve that feeling of strength and balance I can only compare to my experience as a gymnast when I was a teen. But aerobatics on the ocean far surpasses that.
I still cherish my memories of trekking in the distant mountains and quaint far-flung villages but the ease of escaping to glide on powerful waves right here in my own backyard is pretty darn marvelous.